Jul 1
Shitpot Crater
Did that get your attention? Well, that’s what it’s really called. Wikipedia has a perfect description of how this crater got its name:
The naming of the mountain is a bit of lore from the Old West. C. J. Babbit, an 1880s rancher and early landowner of the mountain, expressed his opinion that the mountain resembled a pot of excrement, and this became the accepted local name. When viewed from certain angles on the ground, the combination of the smooth round shape of the cone, the dark lava spatter on the rim, and the long dark lava flow extruding from the base do indeed resemble a toilet catastrophe. Mapmakers refused to spell out the full name, and the mountain has been shown on maps and other literature with the abbreviated name.
Down in this post I have pictures of the flow from space and from the rim of the crater. The crater is in the shaded region, within the blue circle. Drive up route 89 from Flagstaff, well out of the pines and into the desert. Pass both signs for Wupatki National Monument (a cool place I’ll write about some other time). There is a forest (dirt) road on the left-hand side. Take it under the power lines about one mile from 89,and about 6 miles after that you’ll see the unmistakably conical shape of SP. There are a number of other volcanoes in the region - actually, the area is pimpled with volcanoes - but none are as perfect as SP. Don’t forget your sunscreen and hat.
The scenery from the forest road. The desert is in bloom, and that’s Humphreys Peak, Arizona’s highest, in the background.
The approach to SP. You can see the black rock around the rim.
Here’s a view (with beautiful Holly) as we started climbing the western edge, where there’s a gentler grade for the first couple of hundred yards. Note the car in the background.
In the background is the overflow of SP.
At this point we reached the real slope of the crater. It is a 45 degree angle, and essentially a pile of small gravel. It is very difficult to climb, although on the western side there is more vegetation. The plants hold the cinders together which makes for easier going. It is a very fragile surface; it worries me that people (myself included) will destroy this beautiful place. As we climbed, our feet dug into the soil, sending little avalanches down the slope. The unvegetated area near the base has probably been worn away by people who started to climb, them gave up. The base of the mountain is at 6200 feet; the top is almost 7000. The difficulty of the climb, the desert heat, thorny plants, the time required, and the thin air are probably too much for most out-of-town tourists, most of whom probably give up at this point.
There is a lot of animal life in the desert, if you look for it. I think this is some kind of “earless” lizard, but I don’t know my lizards that well yet.
There are a lot of these big locusts, which have bright yellow wings, red legs and are very pretty when they take flight. On the ground, their camouflage makes them very hard to see. Even if you see one land, it will seem to melt away right in front of your eyes. If you get too close they explode into flight like pigeons and are rather startling. Since you can’t see them, it becomes a common experience as you walk through the region.
Flowers are everywhere.
Finally, the rim! that’s Humphreys peak in the background again. The SP crater is several hundred feet - maybe 300 - deeper than the rim. I didn’t climb down; I think it would be a technical climb, and the friable rock would make it very dangerous. It is a giant echo chamber. It’s a fun surprise to find that your voice echoes for a couple of seconds if you shout. Birds flying in the crater cry and it echoes.
The vista was amazing; every point of the compass has a different view. Northward it is almost a prairie; eastward lies the painted desert; to the south lie the San Francisco peaks (with Mount Humphreys), and to the west are seemingly endless small volcanoes and gently rolling grass-covered hills. It is worth the effort to get to the top.
View to the north. Beyond the horizon lies the Grand Canyon.
View to the south. Flowers on the crater rim in the foreground; Colton crater in the middle, and Humpreys peak in the background.
View to the east. on the horizon, to the right, you can see a straight line that marks te boundary of Wupatki. I guess it’s greener to the left because the adjacent ground is ranched and either fertilized by cattle or irrigated. In the foreground you can see some extruded lava that squirted out of the ground like toothpaste. There are many examples of this at the summit. The crater stopped erupting about 71000 years ago; it’s hard to believe that some of the lava forms still look so fresh.
Lichens on extruded lava.
I walked all the way around the rim, a difficult and sometimes dangerous trip because of the jumble of shattered lava and the precipitous heights. If you fell here, you’d roll a long way through razor-sharp plants and unforgiving rocks to wind up in a deep pit with no escape. This view from the eastern rim looks out to the west. As a gauge of the crater’s size, that’s Holly on the horizon. Click on this image to enlarge it; you’ll see a speck on the other side - that’s Holly.
Another distance-gauging image. The car is in this picture - can you find it?
Did I mention that we had the place all to ourselves?
Reluctantly, we started down. We took the northern slope down because we wanted to see a different side of the volcano. It is heavily forested, and since everything is flowering it’s also pretty. We could hear quail calling in the underbrush.
Holly is taking a picture of something on the ground. Look at that perfect 45 degree slope!
You don’t walk down, you slide down - you almost ski down. I’d take a step forward and slide about six feet, sinking into the cinders over my ankles. I fell a couple of times, once falling on a pointed rock that could have done real damage if it hit me on the head. I did my best to avoid sliding over plants. Sharp plants of all sorts clawed at us on the way down, but fragrant flowers, birds, endless blue skies and great views made it all worthwhile.
Here’s a satellite image of SP with its distinctive lava flow.
Here is that same lava flow seen from the crater rim, facing northeast.
Here’s Holly down in the lava field. It’s over 100 feet thick in places, a jumbled profusion of jumbled, cracked lava. It’s like a coral reef; countless crevices make homes for all kinds of animals, including tarantulas. They make distinctive burrows in sandy areas, also inhabiting abandoned lizard burrows. Like all good monsters, they come out only at night. Sooner or later I’ll go in search of them.
No commentsJun 27
Dog at the beach
A couple of years ago we took Tycho to the beach for the first time. He drank massive quantities of seawater and later had a legendary barfing session, right on the startlingly perfect green turf of an exclusive beachfront hotel. There was a sign that said “stay off of the grass” and a hotel guard watching, but for some reason we didn’t get into trouble. I like this series because it shows a dog doing almost everything dogs like to do.
Jun 26
Views of Humphreys Peak from Flagstaff
One fine morning, I drove around the outskirts of Flagstaff enjoying the scenery. The mountain is Humphreys peak, the highest point in Arizona. This mountain - actually an extinct volcano - dominates the skyline around the city. Watching the weather change around its peak can be an evening’s entertainment. The buildings in the pictures are at Lowell Observatory, where I work. The low uninteresting building is where I have an office. Yes, the sky really is that blue!
Jun 25
Controlled burn
Yesterday morning I went outside and smelled/saw smoke, so thick it obscured the scenery, even the near scenery. It was alarming, because it was thick enough to bother my eyes, and I could hear a helicopter flying overhead. I figured a forest fire was in progress, and that was true. It was a “prescribed burn” set by national forest managers.
Compare this photo taken in the morning:
To this one, taken a few days earlier:
2 commentsJun 22
Telescope building looking more and more finished
I’ve been too busy to be creative, so here’s a link.
http://www.lowell.edu/dct/tour.php?req=domepanels&pic=tour_domepanel08.jpg
No commentsJun 7
Letter to friends
Here is a letter I sent to friends recently - I’ll put it here as a catch-all for people I might have missed.
—
Greetings all!
If you find anyone that I’ve left off of this email, please forward it to them. Omission from this list is accidental!
It has been a few months since I left the Lab and I have been thinking about all of you. After a 6-week marathon session of home refurbishing, car purchasing and all kinds of last-minute details, we (Holly and myself) rented our house to a great lady (who is taking care of our dog) and hit the road. We drove for about two weeks, eventually landing up in Flagstaff, AZ. Along the way, we stopped to see the creation museum in Kentucky (it was like the twighlight zone), Arches national park, monument Valley, many smaller parks, friends along the way, and of course too many interesting roadside sights to mention here. The trip length was 2900 miles.
I have been at my new job for three weeks. The assignment is as challenging as any I have faced at JHUAPL, but the conditions of work are very different. Lowell Observatory is like a big family. There are only 80 people on staff. Everyone knows everyone else. Although I have many tasks, they are all for the same project. I don’t have to worry about what I’m going to be doing next month, and don’t have to fill out a weekly time sheet. Among the staff, there is a sense of work/life balance, but also an intense feeling of dedication to the work and to the institution. There is a sense that the work is important, and a sense of the history of the institution. The campus is situated within a national forest on a small pine-covered mountain overlooking Flagstaff at 7300 feet. There are breathtaking views of mountains and many animals around the place. It is dog-friendly and some people bring dogs to work. In three weeks, I’ve purchased one tank of gas, and probably won’t need another one for a week or two unless I go on a trip.
We have been living in temporary quarters in a historic building on campus; the building is filled with historical curiosities dating back to the 1890s when Percival Lowell began his investigations on the planet Mars. We’ve found a special apartment of our own, less than a mile away from Lowell, and will soon move into it. The observatory is the local center of public science education, in the same way as the Baltimore aquarium (only smaller), so there is a constant stream of visitors. The facilities are open until after dark, and if the weather is good and the sky clear (which it usually is) visitors can look through the historic 24-inch telescope which dates back to 1896. Flagstaff has just the right balance of small-town and large-town features. The place has an old town district with many locally-owned businesses, restaurants and art galleries. On the outskirts there is a wal-mart, supermarkets, etc. It is a resort town, but with all the conveniences needed. The grand canyon is 1.5 hours away. Many of the country’s most famous national parks (Zion, Canyon de Chelley, Meteor crater, petrified forest, etc.) are weekend trips. It is a very outdoorsy society and almost everyone you see is athletic and tanned, but in a mountain way, not a Miami way. The city is full of trails; mountain biking, climbing and skiing are big here. In the summer, people come from the desert cities (Phoenix, Tuscon, etc.) to get out of the heat. In the winter, people in Flagstaff can be in the desert in an hour or so to get some alternative weather. Simply walking around the streets on an errand, you can see breathtaking sights like a pink sunset over volcanoes. Like any place it has some problems (traffic from tourists, transient homeless, the danger of urban sprawl) but there is nothing like this in Maryland, even counting the wonderful eastern shore and mountainous western portion of the state.
When I left I promised I’d keep up with my friends back home. Although you are out of sight, you are definitely not out of mind. I am still in the process of processing pictures and writing about our adventures, but some of them are on my blog. Here are the main links. If you’d like to keep up to date, take a look at the blog periodically. I post something at least every week, and will be posting about our trip out here for weeks to come.
http://spleen-me.com/blog (the blog main page)
http://spleen-me.com/blog/?p=853 (daily maps of progress and short descriptions of that day, keep hitting “next”)
http://spleen-me.com/blog/?p=869 (creation museum, this stirred up a minor controversy. See comments at end of post, and also http://spleen-me.com/blog/?p=1075 )
http://spleen-me.com/blog/?p=1032 (St. Louis)
http://spleen-me.com/blog/?p=998 (monument valley)
http://spleen-me.com/blog/?p=1161 (the telescope)
http://spleen-me.com/blog/?p=978 and http://spleen-me.com/blog/?p=1082 (pictures of where we live)
Fondly, Dan
2 commentsJun 7
The Discovery Channel Telescope (DCT)
Recently there was a Lowell Observatory Advisory board meeting. A couple of my colleagues and myself gave tours of the construction site to board members. The discovery channel telescope ( or DCT, so named because of significant funding from that television channel) is being built on a mesa near Happy jack, AZ.
You can see that the building is in an advanced state of construction; the telescope itself is not yet completed and is not yet inside.
The portion on top that is mostly girders - “the dome” will weigh about 1/3 of a million pounds when complete. It will be turned by four electric motors. The telescope is a leviathan that will weigh some 145000 pounds and sit on its own bearing and have its own motors. The dome and telescope will turn together in separate but synchronized motion.
The telescope and the interior of the dome must be kept at the same temperature as outside so that there are no thermal disturbances which will mess up the optical seeing. To do this, the building has many vent doors which can be opened, as well as active liquid cooling that will control the temperature of the telescope’s mirrors. Also, air will be drawn through the tubular support structure of the telescope as well as the mirror mount.
Here are a couple pictures of me during the tour, taken by Holly.
Here I am explaining the Active Optics System (AOS). It is not designed to correct atmospheric distortions, but to control the shape of the main mirror while the telescope moves around. Although the mirror is made of ultra-low-expansion glass, and a chunk of it would seem rigid, you can think of it as a blanket of glass. It weighs 6,700 lbs is about 4.2 meters - 14 feet - across and only 10 cm thick. So, as it moves, it wrinkles and sags. You can not see this with the naked eye, but since the mirror needs to be maintained in shape by only a fraction of a wavelength of light (less than 1 millionth of a meter), it is a problem. To counteract this, there are mechanical “pushers” around the periphery and underneath the mirror. These components push, pull and lift the mirror to maintain its shape. The mirror is not bolted to its mount, because that would distort the surface to the mirror and thus the resulting image. It is made to slide around while the mechanical compensators keep it in shape and in the right position.
I am pointing at an engineering drawing of the mirror on its mount. To my right is a rendering of the telescope which will sit inside the dome. I’ll really have to get some JPEGS to post here.
Inside the dome, under construction.
One of the numerous dome bearings that will support the enormous mass of the dome structure and allow it to turn smoothly.
View looking up from the mezzanine level. The temporary wooden structure fills the space that will be occupied by the telescope.
View of the landscape around the telescope site. It’s in the coconino national forest north of Phoenix.
The day’s pictures (including some already shown above):
For “official” photos of the site as well an engineering documents and more, see here.
No commentsJun 7
Uncle Percy’s attic
We’re lodged in the Slipher building at Lowell observatory. It is one of the older buildings at the here - a wonderful old creaking mansion, built in the early 1900s from local stone and ponderosa pine. It’s filled with fireplaces, multiple stairways, wood paneling, and period furniture. The window glass is wrinkled; its large attic is stuffed with historical curiosities.
Don’t forget that you can click on any of these images to see larger versions.
On the first night, I explored the entire building from top to bottom. The attic was by far the most fantastic place. Although the rotunda of the building houses Percival Lowell’s library and a number of historical astronomical instruments (like the blink comparator used to find Pluto), a large quantity of material lies out of public view. Creeping around in that attic late at night with only a flashlight, I felt like I was in a Harry Potter movie. Cobwebs were draped across ancient wooden telescope cameras; shadowed corners divulged piles of glass plates bearing images of mars exposed at the dawn of the last century. 90-year-old notes scratched with fountain pens described the contents of disintegrating crates of handwritten data. Handmade, 19th-century brass machinery gleamed dully in the feeble light from the unevenly spaced bulbs. Good thing I had a flashlight. I wiped a thick rime of dust from the manufacturer’s plate on a primitive-looking electric telescope drive; it was patented (and manufactured) around 1900. Less antique but still dated tube-based equipment also piqued my interest, as did a box of mariner 9 data.
I went back in the day time to make use of the beautiful dusty light.
The intriguing stairway upwards…
As you go up, you can see the inside curve of the rotunda.
In seemingly endless shelves lining the attic, a jumble of astronomic history sits awaiting display by future curators. At lower left, a portrait of Percival Lowell glares sternly at me and my camera.
In dozens of boxes, historical artifacts lie in a semi-organized jumble.
The label on this box of glass plates reads “Negative enlargement of Mars and pro-mars arranged in order of original films.” The date on the box is 1922.
Carefully opening the box and gingerly holding the plate up to the light, I could see an image of mars used in research almost 50 years before I was born, and about 90 years ago. In the intervening years, many spacecraft have orbited Mars, and several robots have landed and even crawled around on its surface. If only those early astronomers could have seen the data we have! What they labored to learn, squinting through primitive telescopes, imagining the details of this distant and blurry planet, was only a fraction of the larger understanding we now have; but the modern knowledge would not have been possible without their pioneering labor.
Here are some primitive filters used for photographing mars (and probably other objects). The one on top reads “To measure apparent brightness of Mars.”
I’m not sure what this is - probably a small blink comparator, or a device for close inspection of photographic plates. It has the look of old machinery, made by hand with brass fittings.
A box of Mariner 9 data from 1972. Notice the small sign tacked to a beam - it says “Photographic equipment - ‘old’.”
Here is some of that photographic equipment, made of wood and brass and with an enormous bellows. Lying on top and around this camera (known as an “astrograph”) are the carriers for the enormous glass negative plates of approximately 10′x14′. Glass plates date from the earliest days pf photography, before there was cheap celluloid film. They continued to be useful for some time after the invention of celluloid because the rigid glass maintained the flatness of large glass plates. I don’t know how old these are, but I’m guessing they date from before 1915. Matthew Brady used similar equipment to photograph the civil war.
A primitive-looking reflector telescope made of riveted struts, and with brass fittings. Any time I see a metal construction with brass and no welds, I suspect that its old; welding wasn’t commonly used priot to 1930, specially in one-off custom pieces like this. Brass is not often used in the modern era; aluminum has largely replaced it.
If you look closely, you can see the reflection of me and my camera.
An antique vacuum pump, probably used to evacuate spectroscopy tubes. It has a leather belt and a wooden base. They don’t make ‘em like that any more!
The manufacturer’s plate on the motor. The patent date is 1900; based on the appearance and other objects attached to it, I’m guessing that the motor was made around than 1915 (the patent date of 1900 does not reflect the manufacture date, which is always later).
This mysterious and ancient-looking mechanism was sitting on top of a piece of modern electronics when I found it. I put it on the floor to photograph it, then carefully replaced it. It seems to be some kind of synchronized reflector.
A large telescope lens found lying amidst a pile of picnic equipment.
Finally, the iconic painting of Percival Lowell gazing through his signature Clark telescope. This painting has been reproduced many times on various promotional materials. It is really quite good; it was painted by Flasgstaff junior high school students in 1980.
3 commentsJun 7
Hummingbird
The grounds at Lowell are filled with Hummingbirds. They are broad-tailed hummers, a species not found on the east coast, although they look almost identical to the ruby-throated hummers found on the eastern seaboard. They have a distinctive metallic “churr” as they fly. They are bold and extremely territorial, and will not hesitate to swoop down on a person in order to chase them away!
This guy always perches on the same branch of the same tree, where he periodically asserts his dominance by making fantastic flights up to high altitudes before plunging at high speed almost to the ground in great, looping dives.
In the scenic image, you can just barely see him at the center, a miniature bird-shaped dot. These animals sooo tiny.
















































































































